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朝珠是清代冠服制度中一种独特的礼制性冠服配饰,是区分封建等级的标识之一。它由佛珠演化而来,结构与佛珠、念珠类似。朝珠由108颗圆珠串成,象征着一年中有12月份、24节气和72候。整串朝珠一般由四颗大珠——“结珠”将其平均分为四段,象征着春、夏、秋、冬四个季节。顶端的大珠一般是葫芦形,名为“佛头塔”,下垂于它背后的佛头和背云,寓意着“一元复始”。每串朝珠上还缀有3条小珠串,称作“记念”,每串有10粒小珠,象征着一个月里的上、中、下三旬。“记念”珠串的末端缀有宝石材质的坠角。佩戴“记念”时男女有别,男子左二右一,女左一右二。佛头塔下连一条阔丝带,缀一块宝石大坠子。大坠子,称“背云”,背云下还垂有一块宝石坠角,佩戴朝珠时,背云应垂于后背。

Chaozhu is a unique ceremonial coronet accessory in the Qing Dynasty's coronet system, and is one of the symbols used to distinguish feudal levels. It evolved from Buddhist beads and has a structure similar to Buddhist beads and prayer beads. Chaozhu is composed of 108 round beads, symbolizing the December, 24 solar terms, and 72 seasons of the year. The entire string of Chaozhu is generally divided into four sections by four large pearls - "Jiezhu", symbolizing the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. The large bead at the top is usually in the shape of a gourd and is called the "Buddha Head Pagoda". The Buddha's head and back cloud hanging behind it symbolize "a beginning and a beginning". Each string of beads is also adorned with three small beads, known as "remembrance". Each string has 10 small beads, symbolizing the early, middle, and late thirties of the month. The end of the 'Remembrance' bead string is adorned with a pendant made of gemstone material. When wearing 'Remembrance', there are differences between men and women, with two left and one right for men and one right for women. Under the Buddha Head Pagoda is a wide ribbon adorned with a large gemstone pendant. The Great Pendant, also known as the 'Back Cloud', has a gemstone pendant hanging under it. When wearing a facing bead, the back cloud should be hanging on the back.







朝珠的质地有东珠、翡翠、玛瑙、水晶、玉、青金石、珊瑚、松石、蜜蜡等。众多材质的朝珠中,以东珠最为尊贵。东珠分为七个等级,重量在一钱以上的为头等,专供帝后使用。剩下六等依照重量、光泽等分级。皇帝、皇后、皇太后是最高级东珠的享用者,至于皇子、公主、亲王、郡王等,非皇帝特恩不得佩戴东珠饰品,即使佩戴东珠,所用的珠子规格也较低。乾隆时期,还出现过个别赏赐大臣东珠的情况。六世班禅入京为皇帝祝寿,乾隆也仅仅赏给他一颗五等的东珠。可惜到道光时,东珠资源匮乏,供不应求,东珠的采捕被迫暂停。

在《清会典》里对朝珠有明确的规定:皇帝朝珠,谨按本朝定制,皇帝朝珠用东珠一百有八、佛头、记念、背云大小坠珍宝杂饰各惟其宜,大典礼御之。皇子朝珠不得用东珠。公侯文武百官,“凡应用东珠,重不得过三分(一钱等于十分),如用三分以上即同违式”。

The texture of Chaozhu includes Dongzhu, jadeite, agate, crystal, jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise, honey wax, etc. Among the numerous materials of the Chaozhu, Dongzhu is the most prestigious. The Dongzhu is divided into seven levels, with those weighing more than one coin being of first class, exclusively for the use of emperors and empresses. The remaining six grades are classified according to weight, gloss, etc. The emperor, empress, and empress dowager are the highest level consumers of the Eastern Pearl. As for princes, princesses, princes, and princesses, they are not allowed to wear Eastern Pearl jewelry unless specifically favored by the emperor. Even if they wear Eastern Pearl, the specifications of the beads used are relatively low. During the Qianlong period, there were also cases where some ministers were rewarded with Dongzhu. The Sixth Panchen Lama entered the capital to congratulate the emperor on his birthday, and Qianlong only rewarded him with a fifth class Eastern Pearl. Unfortunately, when it came to Daoguang, the resources of Dongzhu were scarce and supply was in short supply, forcing a suspension of Dongzhu's hunting.

In the "Qing Huidian", there is a clear regulation on the court beads: the emperor's court beads are custom-made according to their own dynasty, and the emperor's court beads are made with a hundred and eight eastern pearls, Buddha heads, memorials, and small and precious ornaments, all of which are suitable for the emperor's court beads. The grand ceremony is dedicated to the emperor. The prince is not allowed to use Dongzhu in court. Marquis Wen Wu Baiguan, "Any use of the Dongzhu cannot exceed three cents (one coin equals ten cents), and if more than three cents are used, it is the same as violating the rules.







按照规制:

皇帝为一盘东珠;

太后、皇后同制,为一盘东珠,两盘珊瑚,明黄绦;

皇贵妃、贵妃、妃为蜜珀一盘,珊瑚二盘,明黄绦;

嫔位朝珠为珊瑚一盘,蜜珀二盘,吉服朝珠一盘,金黄绦。

亲王除了不可以使用东珠以外,其他的材质都可以选择。但亲王的朝珠有个特点,要有金黄绦,以示皇族身份。亲王嫡福晋为一盘红珊瑚,两盘蜜蜡或者琥珀,亦配金黄绦。

According to regulations:

The emperor is a plate of Eastern pearls;

The Empress Dowager and Empress Dowager made the same dish, consisting of one plate of East Pearl, two plates of coral, and a bright yellow tapestry;

Empress Dowager, Consort Dowager, and Consort Dowager are one plate of honey, two plates of coral, and a bright yellow ribbon;

The imperial court has a plate of coral, two plates of honey and pearl, one plate of auspicious court beads, and a golden ribbon.

The prince can choose all other materials except for not using Dongzhu. But the prince's court beads have a characteristic of having a golden sash to show his royal identity. The Prince's legitimate blessing is a plate of red coral, two plates of honey wax or amber, and also paired with a golden ribbon.

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